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How to take Rejected Take Off Insurance Animal Insurance

It's not like Bansfield doesn't understand that she's dead. They sent us a card saying how sorry they were for our loss... oh yeah after years of treating our dog like a credit card and suggesting useless procedures and tests to milk us for what we were worth.
Last year the vet had the nerve to tell me there was "a look" in my dog's eyes and she was unhappy. My dog was and is one of the most important things in my life and I can safely say she wasn't ever as happy as she was the last few years of her life.
After a LOT of talking on the phone, they said they would "help us" with our balance... aka change the contract to fewer months. So they transfer us to the collection dept of Bansfield. Hours later we finally talk to someone who isn't a heartless asshole.

OH, they're a hospital as well as an insurance program.
I wouldn't even say "don't use Banfield"; I'd say "don't use ANY corporate chain." Find a local vet who knows and values his/her customers. Local, small practices can't afford to rip people off, or they'd run out of customers and close down.

This. A thousand times this. You might pay slightly more with a small practice, (and shop around, they are EVERYWHERE) but the quality of service you receive (both for your and your pet) outweigh any dollar amount that could possibly be saved.
I've seen the horrors of Bansfield through a friend who rescued 2 dogs. He loved them so much. Those people (for the most part) are in it for the money, not for the love of animals.

And yet when my cat was dying of liver failure, our small practice vet said that our best option was a kidney transplant for our 14 year old cat. $20k.
A junior vet let us sneak in to take her home that friday night. She died that Sunday morning.

Don't get me wrong, not all small practices are good. I worked for one during high school that was rather shady. But when you stay outside corporate you have the option of shopping around.
Did you get a second (or third) opinion for your kitty? I'm sorry that happened to her :(

Didn't have time. Zelda went in on Monday and was gone by Sunday. I'm not saying Banfield is great at all, but there are few resources for evaluating vets.


As someone who is trying to find a decent exotic vet for my parrot, I understand. I have to go by word of mouth. Trying my luck at a 3rd vet in a few weeks after the first one (who was awesome) retired and the second one was afraid to hold my bird to examine him.

could your retired vet recommend someone new?

I asked him and several people who worked there and they honestly knew no one but some random person who is really REALLY far away. I ended up getting the name of someone who isn't too far from the woman who babysits my parrot. Too bad it isn't 5 minutes from the house like the old vet was. That made the trip really easy for the bird. He doesn't care for car rides a whole lot.

It's not like Bansfield doesn't understand that she's dead. They sent us a card saying how sorry they were for our loss... oh yeah after years of treating our dog like a credit card and suggesting useless procedures and tests to milk us for what we were worth.
Last year the vet had the nerve to tell me there was "a look" in my dog's eyes and she was unhappy. My dog was and is one of the most important things in my life and I can safely say she wasn't ever as happy as she was the last few years of her life.
After a LOT of talking on the phone, they said they would "help us" with our balance... aka change the contract to fewer months. So they transfer us to the collection dept of Bansfield. Hours later we finally talk to someone who isn't a heartless asshole.

OH, they're a hospital as well as an insurance program.
I wouldn't even say "don't use Banfield"; I'd say "don't use ANY corporate chain." Find a local vet who knows and values his/her customers. Local, small practices can't afford to rip people off, or they'd run out of customers and close down.Not just quality of service, but you can tell the vets of private practices genuinely give a shit about you and your pet. I will never take my dog to a chain unless its the only option that hasn't been exhausted.

This is very true. Our vet called us personally (not her tech or the receptionist) after visiting her for a deworming pill to see if he had passed his tapeworm. That's caring.

My vet does this too. She'll also get me in on short notice, because my dog is elderly.

That's what I like about my vet. They don't see hundreds upon hundreds of people. Because of this they can spend their money on better quality equipment since they don't need as much of it, and the staff actually knows each of their customers and their animals. It just seems like less of an assembly line like the big chains tend to feel.

Banfield has long since been a disgusting shithole of a chain; I've worked for and taken my pets to other, non-Banfield chains and not all of them suck. And not all stores within each chain suck either, the office I worked at in a chain was hell but some of the other branches around the city are nice. Good rule of thumb though - stay away from chains. You never know.

Bansfield is basically Petsmart's corporate vet.

oh yeah after years of treating our dog like a credit card and suggesting useless procedures and tests to milk us for what we were worth.
Exactly. Can't stand them.....

Unfortunately, it's true. Banfield 'insurance' isn't insurance, it's a contract you enter into at the beginning of the year agreeing to pay vet bills for the entire year whether your pet lives or dies.
I thought everyone knew this?

The big issue is that Banfield isn't insurance... it's an annual "wellness plan." When you sign up you agree to a certain cost for certain services provided to your dog throughout the year, as well as a discount on additional services. You can either pay in full or your can pay monthly.

Dealing with Banfield is a pain in the ass, and I deal with them frequently (mostly through other people's pets). The only time I personally use and/or recommend one of their plans is for a pets first year only if they have't received any shots elsewhere and they're not fixed yet. Being able to pay off our barn kitties three rounds of shots, neutering and whatever else monthly as opposed to a big ol' chunk was nice. Otherwise find an awesome local vet, they are often cheaper for emergency services, surgeries, and can provide a larger array of services also. (Had a friend's dog require a blood transfusion, we moved him from Banfield to a local vet as Banfield doesn't deal in whole blood, only plasma.) There are a few reasons I do use Banfield but generally speaking, anything major I just don't trust them with. Its a convenience thing for me but I won't touch one of their plans with a ten foot pole for my adult animals.

I'm truly truly sorry for your loss and its shit they're being assholes about the whole thing. Sadly its one of those watch what you sign things. They are in it for the money, absolutely, and its shitty to see that happen when it involves members of our family.

This. A thousand times this. You might pay slightly more with a small practice, (and shop around, they are EVERYWHERE) but the quality of service you receive (both for your and your pet) outweigh any dollar amount that could possibly be saved.
I've seen the horrors of Bansfield through a friend who rescued 2 dogs. He loved them so much. Those people (for the most part) are in it for the money, not for the love of animals.

And yet when my cat was dying of liver failure, our small practice vet said that our best option was a kidney transplant for our 14 year old cat. $20k.
A junior vet let us sneak in to take her home that friday night. She died that Sunday morning.

Don't get me wrong, not all small practices are good. I worked for one during high school that was rather shady. But when you stay outside corporate you have the option of shopping around.
Did you get a second (or third) opinion for your kitty? I'm sorry that happened to her :(

Didn't have time. Zelda went in on Monday and was gone by Sunday. I'm not saying Banfield is great at all, but there are few resources for evaluating vets.

As someone who is trying to find a decent exotic vet for my parrot, I understand. I have to go by word of mouth. Trying my luck at a 3rd vet in a few weeks after the first one (who was awesome) retired and the second one was afraid to hold my bird to examine him.

could your retired vet recommend someone new?

I asked him and several people who worked there and they honestly knew no one but some random person who is really REALLY far away. I ended up getting the name of someone who isn't too far from the woman who babysits my parrot. Too bad it isn't 5 minutes from the house like the old vet was. That made the trip really easy for the bird. He doesn't care for car rides a whole lot.

MANY of their programs are a scam. They would refuse to do procedures without doing other (extremely expensive) procedures which were unnecessary. Here is what happened last year to my dog... they didn't want to do her teeth cleaning without a slew of procedures, tests, etc claiming she wasn't well enough for the anesthesia. So we said "ok we won't do the cleaning then." Before anyone says "why didn't you do all the tests" I want to reiterate they were asking for ridiculous procedures and tests. We've seen many people hold on to their dying dogs to the point where the dog is in extreme pain and knew we never wanted to be putting our dog through surgeries and unhappiness. Well, guess what? As soon as we said we weren't going to do all those tests/procedures, suddenly they could do the tooth cleaning. Suddenly it wasn't an issue for her to have the anesthesia. Magically she's fine to do the teeth cleaning when it means we won't pay for anything.
Moral of the story: they will do ANYTHING to make you pay more money at Bansfield. I strongly recommend asking for second opinions and not taking whatever your vet says to be truth at Bansfield.

I have to be honest... I haven't actually processed that my best friend isn't alive anymore. Yesterday I was in the basement and saw the box with some of her things and broke down. I think it'll take time for me to fully process what actually happened. [/edit]

I would not put any dog, especially an older dog, under anesthesia without pre-anesthetic bloodwork. I would not do a dental cleaning without perioperative antibiotics. You are the owner, and are welcome not to consent to the pre-screening/other precautions, but you are taking on a large amount of risk. I believe this is an unacceptable level of risk for my own pets, but you are obviously welcome to make your own choices.

I am not familiar with Banfield's protocol for dentals, but I really doubt the tests were useless, although I respect your right to deny them. I'm sorry you had a bad experience with the company, and I think the insurance issue is ridiculous, and wish you the best of luck in getting out of your contract.

A thousand times this. While I don't doubt they can be greedy shady bastards, everything the OP described is not a 'scam'.

Anesthesia for pets is no joke. They HAVE to do those pre-tests. It's standard in the industry. Even a dog that is young and healthy can have a mild undetected heart murmur (not all tests will catch them). That is what happened to one of my dogs and his heart stopped during anesthesia. And that was after all the tests. They revived him and he's living today. It isn't just the heart, but liver and other vital organs. If they don't do these tests and your dog died you would be even more mad.
I've used Banfield for 10 years now and I really like the doctors at my local clinic. But if corporate tried to charge me insurance for a pet that died I'd refuse to pay and tell them they can see me in court.

Professional teeth cleanings can be avoided if you brush your dog's teeth really well at LEAST three times a week. But please don't skip out on both. If their dental care is neglected, by the time they are a senior they are going to have some very serious issues as the infection spreads to vital organs through the blood stream.

I think the OP is suffering from sticker price shock...it is true that even with banfield the costs of taking care of an animal are high. But if they are procedures you are going to use anyway I do find it can help cut down on the cost.

There are several pre-tests related to anesthesia just for a healthy dog, but if your dog has some sketchy bloodwork (funky liver enzymes, for example) they usually want more specific bloodwork done so they can maybe find what's going. If you list the tests we can tell you whether they were relevant.

It sounds like your dog's teeth were bad and the vet really wanted to clean them. The cleaning itself is 100% covered so they had nothing to financially gain by deciding to do it anyway. But I'm pretty sure they at least did the basic bloodwork screenings because it could become lawsuit city without it. They just didn't charge you for it. There may be underlying issue with your dog they wanted to check for, but you choose not to explore that possibility further. That's your choice and your right, and no one should judge you for it. It's sometimes a guessing game, even for the doctors.

I 100% understand why you are steamed at Banfield. I would be too. I'd go to the media in a heartbeat and rip them a new one. But from my experiences with Banfield, the vets and corporate are two different entities. I cannot say for certain, but it seems your vet really tried to do what is best for your dog. Dirty teeth can kill a dog and if the oral hygiene is bad enough they will weigh the risks and try to do it anyway (the lesser of two evils).

I've personally had bad experiences with both. In another comment I mentioned how my vet told me there was "a look" in my dog's eyes and she could tell my dog was unhappy. Nobody spent more time with my dog than me and for the past few years she has been the happiest (tail wagging, learning new tricks, following me to every room etc). The vet would constantly change their mind in significant ways (dog needs to lose weight so we cut diet she loses the weight she needed to lose... and then the vet says she's way to skinny and we should give her SIX TIMES as much food, which by the way my dog wasn't even capable of eating). I'm not saying all vets or all Banfield vets are bad, but mine was a total nightmare.

Oh I should mention she basically told me a year ago my dog was going to die any day now in the middle of Petsmart. Held it together in the store and got in my car and lost it.
I'll have to ask about the tests...

You should consider filing a complaint with the Veterinary Medical Board for possible malpractice. All of that sounds very odd. i'm really sorry to hear about all that.

The tests were unrelated, actually. She had a heart condition and they kept pushing to do lots of tests with that and were recommending very expensive surgery. She was already 13 years old and very happy so we made the decision as a family that once her heart condition became an issue (which it did earlier this month) that we would put her down so she wouldn't spend any of her life in pain. This was their way of trying to force us to go down that road which we continuously told them we would not.

I'm really sorry for your loss. My family lost our dog about four or five months ago. I still miss waking up in the morning to find her curled up on the couch or some other comfortable spot, or coming home and not having her spring to greet me. It's not so much pain anymore, but a very fond remembrance of her life, and I'm endlessly thankful we had her for the short time we did. You'll get there too :)
Yeah, and fuck those Bansfield guys.

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Insurance Policies Healthy Male 30 Year Old

Umbrella policies are for supplemental insurance if you have a lot of assets (i.e. a higher net worth than a typical liability maximum for automobile insurance, $300K).
No hurry to get it now if you are single and net worth is under that threshold. It is inexpensive to get later on once your financial picture improves.

If you have dependents, you need life insurance. 20-30 year term insurance that is 8-10x your take home pay.
Long Term Disability insurance. You're far more likely to be disabled than die while still working age. Check with your employer, it's becoming more common in benefit packages.
Car Insurance if you have a car. Lots of variables here.
Home insurance if you have a Home.
Renter's insurance if you're a renter.

I would also add to stay away from purchasing insurance you don't need. No sense in getting life insurance if you don't / have no plans to start a family.
Also, stay away from co-mingling insurance and investments. Keep them separate! Most agents will steer the insurance discussion towards whole life (VUL, Cash Value Life, etc..) because it's very lucrative for them.

If you ARE planning to have a family though, but don't currently have any dependents, is it worth it to get life insurance at a young age? Is it significantly less expensive at age 30 vs. 35 or 40?

I want to know this too. I hope to have kids in the next 10 years, but I'm not married yet.
As another caveat, I have student loans that my parents cosigned on. Is this another reason to have life insurance - to pay off that $50k in case I kick it?

I have student loans that my parents cosigned on.
You will want life insurance for the remaining balance of the student loans your parents cosigned on, unless they have a special death clause that forgives the loan as some student loans do. In general a loan that is cosigned would transfer to the cosigner upon your death. No point in forcing your parents to pay off your loans if you are dead. Better to get insurance.

Insurance agent here.
Yes it's cheaper the younger you are. Plus it's cheaper the healthier your parents and siblings are. So, for example, if you're young and healthy but your dad had a heart attack at age 50 (pretty young) then your insurance will be much more expensive.
I encourage even young single people to get life insurance, just to cover debts and the cost of burial. A 100k term policy for a 25 year old can be had for less than 10 bucks a month.

Does that rate continue? It only seems worth it if it does. Otherwise, as a healthy 25 year-old with no dependents, that's still just $10 I could pocket each month. Why waste the money when I could wait until I actually have kids, you know?

Depending on the plan that rate is the same for the duration of the term.
And you can wait till you have kids and so on, but by then you may have health problems, parents with health problems, etc. which may even make it impossible for you to get insurance at all. It's your call, but given the very minor cost of coverage, I personally see no reason not to.

YES it is normally cheaper to get a term policy at a younger age than later
it is also a good idea to have enough life insurance to cover any debt you may have such as student loans or a mortgage.
Your debt does not disappear in most cases if you die it is just transferred to the next of kin.

Your debt does not disappear in most cases if you die it is just transferred to the next of kin.
Is this really the case? It makes no sense to me (why should anyone have to clean up after estranged family members?) and I've heard a number of times that it doesn't work that way.

These are questions of probate and estate. But, in general, debts do not vanish at death. The estate must still pay off it's debts. This is why there are "estate sales" where a home and its contents are sold as quickly as possible to try and generate the cash needed to pay off debts.

Yeah, this is what I thought. I wouldn't consider this to be "transferring the debt to the next of kin", though, because you are only taking from what could otherwise have belonged to them in the future... i.e., if the estate did not cover all of the debt, the remaining balance would not be passed on.

You are correct. If the estate cannot cover the debt, the debt dies with the estate. There is no additional liability from family members unless you consigned any of their debt.

What happens in the case where there are multiple debts, yet the estate is not worth enough to cover them all?
tautan permaneninduk

No. Debt does not transfer to "the next of kin".
Anyone who cosigns on a loan is automatically responsible for the loan if something happens to the original borrower, or if original borrower does not make payments.

In some cases, debt is communal in a marriage and debts incurred, with or without permission, by one spouse may be required to be borne by the other spouse.

but also remember this means there is no money to have a funeral anything like that

Your debt does not disappear in most cases if you die it is just transferred to the next of kin.
This is not correct. Debts remaining after your death will be paid out of any remaining assets in your estate/trust. If that isn't enough to cover it, your creditors are out of luck. Your "next of kin" are not stuck with your debts when you die. For example, if you're the closest relative to your deadbeat brother, you are NOT responsible for his debts when he dies unless you were a party to the debt in some manner.

When the creditor comes knocking at your door, you say, "I'm sorry, but you have no legal right to hound me for this dead person's debt." And then shut the door.

ok if you believe that but just wait until the creditor are knocking on your door. I have seen it too many times.
I don't "believe" it, I know it. You're posting something as fact that is false. You are not liable for someone else's debts when they die unless you are a party to the debt in some manner. A creditor contacting a relative in that situation is preying on the ignorance of the relative (and that does happen).


That's a tougher decision and one that will be based on your personal situation. Do you lead a unhealthy lifestyle? Any vices (smoking) or chronic diseases with a risk of getting worse? Any reason to believe your health will decline? If yes, then I would try and lock in on a 20 or 30 year term policy. Otherwise, I'd wait until kids were a certainty.

The agent I was working with at the time when I got my disability policy ran the numbers on a few scenarios for term, with health and other risk factors a constant and it was negligible from 30 - 35 (less than ~$20 difference a month for a 30 year term).

It does sort of make sense, but the issue is that you don't know when you'll actually need the insurance, and you also can't be sure how much coverage you'll need. So you may end up paying for several years of coverage that you don't really need, only to have to get a second policy at a higher rate anyway once you DO have kids.

Well personally I'm 30 years old, not married, no kids, but hopefully one day...
Let's say I buy a whole life policy now for, I dunno, let's say $1,000,000. If I end up not having kids, could I list a niece or nephew as the beneficiary? Or can I have the money donated to a charity or my old high school when I croak?

I think for whole life, it probably makes a lot more sense to buy younger (people here will tell you not to buy whole life, but that's a separate issue). I was thinking more if you got, say, a 20-year term and then end up not having kids for 10 years. At that point you'll probably need to buy another policy anyway.

If you could predict with reasonable accuracy how many kids you're going to have and when, then you could run the numbers and see if it makes sense to buy now or later. For example, it might be cheaper to buy a 30-year term now than a 20-year term in 10 years.

I'm pretty sure you can list whoever you want as the beneficiary. If you don't yet have kids, you'd presumably just pick someone else for now and change it if/when you do have kids.


To answer the question: you don't know who you will be marrying, and you don't know when you will be finally 'done' with childbearing. Too many variables - you could be in your 30's and marry someone in their 40's, or someone in their 20's. Very different scenarios on when childbearing starts and ends.

And so the Term Insurance to get doesn't make any sense to buy when you are still single - you buy it when you need it, and for as long as you need it.

Say you get married in 5 years. You will have sunk 5 years buying Term insurance for who? And then your spouse is working, and perhaps she can take care of her own needs should you die, so you still don't need life insurance.

And then in another 3 years you have 2 kids. So from kid #1 you buy a 20-year term, so that that kid #1 is taken care of in the most important years - when they are grown up it doesn't matter nearly so much. And a few years later, with kid #2 it's another 20-year term insurance, and you are all set-up.
You can play with insurance calculators and have different birth dates to determine that the rates really don't move that much between 30 and 35 and 40 (and a few years beyond that).
Everyone's situation is different, and as a single person there's not much point in buying life insurance since you don't have any dependents.

The big issue here is risk. On average, you may come out better not paying insurance just as on average the term itself with dependents is a waste as less than 1% of policies pay out.

Insurance policies are contracts. You have no guarantee you will be able to get one at a later date. A 22 year old in my office just got cancef and will have to either decide not to have kids as early as him and his so want and hope he can get coverage later or accept there is a chance his family will be financially screwed. On the flip side, his wife could plan on not staying home with the kids knowing she needs to have a strong backup.
Or he could have bought term, knowing he wanted a family within 5 years because it matched his goals.

Thanks, those are pretty much the "standard" insurance policies to have. I've only recently learned about Long Term Care insurance - is that a good investment at an early age to help mitigate healthcare costs after retirement?

Insurance agent here - The only reason to buy LTCI at a young age (in my opinion) is if you are particularly risk averse. The costs of long-term care are very expensive, but the odds of you needing it before age 65 are slim. More likely you'd need your Disability policy.

LTCI is a rapidly changing beast. Many many companies which once offered it are now out of the market altogether. Those that still offer it are increasing costs rapidly. While it can be tempting to say "I want to lock in my rate by purchasing now" it's likely to be such a long time that you're going to be paying decades of premiums. Better to simply invest the cash, in my opinion.
Besides, the price for a 30 year old is not really that much cheaper than it is for a 55 year old.
tl;dr: give it a couple decades.

EDIT: I feel I should mention that many life insurance policies nowadays include riders which are remarkably similar to LTCI. For example, my term policy will pay up to 50% of it's death benefit before I die if I find myself meeting the same requirements an LTCI policy has. (unable to dress myself, clean myself, etc.)

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Tips Health Insurance had brain cancer

This is the site to use. It sounds fishy but it's actually the best health insurance comparison site for the US. Once you choose a plan, you end up applying directly to the insurer; you don't give any personal information except your age and zip code to eHealthInsurance.
I got my plan through them. $3000 deductible (annually, that's the out of pocket limit), no coverage limits, so if there's cancer or something it's covered no matter how expensive it is... $83/month with Aetna.

Some states don't let you buy high deductible plans or require that lots of stuff can't have a deductible (or in this case maybe it wouldn't satisfy the Romney-care insurance requirement, just a guess, I don't know). I remember looking at New York and couldn't find anything for less than $250.

When my insurance hit $10,000 a year -- which I had NEVER had a claim, I dropped it.
Fucking scam.

Seriously, my work pays for my insurance and my family's is still ~$10k per year. I'm looking into low cost alternatives w/ HSA.

I am single, beyond child-bearing years, no major claims and it is RIDICULOUS. When I finally did have a claim for an outpatient procedure, they denied it. FUCK FORTIS.

Massachusetts and New York are both Guaranteed Issue states. Meaning, they have to issue insurance to any person who wants it. They cannot decline that person. I also believe the rating bands are narrow by law. So that you can only pay 50% of some sick 65-year-old.
In California, they don't have to accept you, so they really only accept healthier individuals. I believe the rating bands in California are wider, so they are allowed to charge younger people a lot less relative to older people.

In Mass, a young male subsidizes unhealthier and older individuals. In California, they do not. This is why you get the price difference.

Then I have to pay the state when tax time comes because I didn't have insurance because I couldn't afford it. I've been looking into getting it from the state (MassHealth), so that might be an option.

There's a way to get out of the no-health-insurance penalty if your income is low enough. There's also subsidized insurance available from the MA Health Connector. Information about both of those is listed under Commonwealth Care (including a quiz/calculator to find out where your income stands in their brackets in terms of escaping tax penalties or getting discounted coverage).
Sadly my income is just a hair above the subsidization limit, so I wind up paying over $250/month.

well the MA plan he's referring to is a $2K deductible, which isn't that low. it seems like they're forcing him to foot the bill for older/sicker people, then fining him if he refuses to play ball.

I'm an MA resident too and just don't understand why health insurance is so ridiculously expensive here. If everybody is insured, isn't it supposed to be cheaper?

Only if your insurance premium is linked to your income. In the UK, the NHS is paid for through general taxation, which is generally progressive in its taxation. Everyone who earns money is taxed; the more you earn, the more you pay [towards the NHS]. Everyone is then put one one huge risk pool, and the cost for the service is calculated accordingly.

In MA, your premium is linked to both your risk to the insurer, and the fact you're in a larger risk pool full of high-risk members. I don't know if there is an insurer of last-resort, or if all insurers are regulated in some way to ensure provision, but at any rate: for the majority of people, private health insurance is more expensive than a national health insurance scheme (such as the NHS).

No, you are paying for all the sick people. The MA rate is the sustainable steady state rate. They could however reduce rates by allowing more competition and reducing regulations.
In CA, an insurance co will only insure healthy people, so can offer deep discount rates, while offloading the cost burden of poor sick people to the government, taxpayers, Medicare, and private hospital ER rooms. Eventually as more people drop ins due to rising rates, and the state defaults on bonds, it will implode.

In NYC, the cost is high because the rent is high. I pay $430/m. I dont know about rural NY.

The cost of health insurance is high because the rent is high?
I think the cost is high in New York for many of the same reasons it is high Massachusetts.

Was hoping it was obvious and would not need to explain it. NYC is world class city, everyone in world wants to live here, greater demand yields higher prices, those prices are always passed to consumer. In order for doctor in NYC to live as nice as elsewhere, she's going to charge more, plus pay staff more for their cost of living etc. NYC is land limited so cannot build out, plus has rent control limiting incentives to build more units.

MA is different because it has mandatory insurance regulations.

If you are sick right now, use this to find a sliding scale health care center. This was set up by the Affordable Health Care act and helps people without insurance. It covers general checkups, when you're sick, dental, prescriptions, mental health, etc.

If you go, and they find something, you'll never get insurance.
Buy insurance at least first, and keep it regardless. Health isn't about if you're going to die, it's about when. Gambling on the outcome isn't worth it. Get insurance and keep it, once you give it up, it's difficult to get back.

It really is. Single-payer makes sense; between the taxes paid and other intangible contributions a citizen makes the gov't has far more of an interest in keeping me alive than any insurance company ever could.

Re: govt wants to keep you alive. How do you explain nuclear testiing near people in the desert? How do you explain syphilus testing on poor black people in the south? How do you explain sending young people to undefined wars in foreign lands to die for deceptive reasons? How do you explain FDA food guide pyramids that promoted refined grains and sugars which lead to obesity? How do you explain corn subsidies to reduce cost of high fructose corn syrup which leads to diabetes?

What do any of those have to do with health care? Of course there are aspect of gov't that will exploit aspects of society, just as there are aspects of the free market that will exploit the old, sick, uninformed, you name it. It's called 'human nature', and it's the same reason human history is filled with wars and other atrocities.

I stand by my statement - the gov't has far more of an invested interest in my health than any insurance company ever can. There's a reason why every other first-world industrialized nation has nationalized health care. Imagine if the US had spent as much in the last 10 years on keeping people alive as it has on trying to make them dead.


Health care should never go to the lowest bidder. And there's just as much waste, bureaucracy and fraud in the private sector as anywhere. Please tell me what incentive an insurance company has to keep me alive after I get sick? There are too many stories of insurance carriers dropping someone once they have to start paying on a policy.

Re: Prices. Yes, it should go to lowest bidder. That's how prices work to contain costs.
Re: Waste. Ins companies pay very smart people a lot of money to uncover fraud. Bureaurocrats don't care; it's not their money!

Re: Incentives. Yes, ins. companies care to keep you healthy so you don't get sick and keep paying them for a very long time. They are bound by same contract laws that require fire ins. companies to pay for house fire damage. Yes, there needs to be a rule to not allow dropping or no rejection rule, but such a rule also requires mandatory coverage. That is only because it is inhumane to relegate a genetically deficient human to death while dropping an arsonist's fire policy is not inhumane.

Up until Obamacare an insurance company could drop you for no reason; I speak from experience, and can point to examples online. I'm self-employed, do you want to get into a serious discussion about how hard and expensive it is for me to insure myself and my family? I suspect you're pretty clueless.

Health care absolutely shouldn't go to the lowest bidder, it should go to whomever is willing to do whatever it takes to heal me, cost be damned. I personally know a child who suffered partial permanent hearing loss because of 'lowest cost' bullshit. Had she received proper care from the outset, instead of some penny-pinching accountant telling her doctors to keep it brief because of cost, then she'd have her hearing and Keizer-Permanente wouldn't have been successfully sued. Unfortunately, money can't fix everything - she'll never hear properly, and will always need an aid.

If you haven't had any medial advice or care about your problem, you may not have a pre-existing condition in your state. If you go to health care provider, insurance companies can look into your history to see if you've talked to someone about the problem. I think you may still be able to get coverage for this if you get insurance before talking to somebody. But cancer is nothing to mess around with, so just do what you need to do....

I havent had anything really. The last time I had any contact with a doc was about a physical and almost everything turned up clean from my blood work. I just put in an application for coverage and am going to a clinic on tuesday to see what I can do while I wait for my coverage to kick in (if it does).

If you suspect that anything is really wrong with you, don't get it checked out before you get insurance.
I have asthma. I haven't had an attack in over 15 years and only use my emergency inhaler during allergy season, and occasionally when I ride my bike on spare the air days (gotta get to work). That's an extra $100/month right there. Just for asthma.

I wrote up a post on this recently and I'd also suggest looking at a High Deductible Health Plan combined with an HSA. That'll give you a pretty low monthly cost being young and healthy plus cover you for emergencies, and at least with HDHPs in Virginia, all preventive care is 100% covered.

My advice would be to ask a doctor. A doctor would know the best plans out there for good coverage, and good care. What I do know is that it's always better to get a PPO, instead of an HMO, like Kaiser is. With a PPO, you can choose a private practice doctor, and the best rated hospital in your area, and it's covered. Also, if you need referrals to a specialist, it doesn't have to be approved first by some idiot clerk at an HMO. And if you need tests run, it doesn't have to be approved first by that idiot clerk, either. HMO's make money by DENYING care, not giving care. And Kaiser tends to hire doctors that have been kicked off of hospital staffs due to malpractice. That way they don't have to pay them as much.

Assuming you aren't so sick that it would count as a preexisting condition (probably shouldn't go on week one your insurance kicks in, long enough you can pretend it was a recently started thing, the good news is being a young nonsmoker there will likely be no physical or whatnot.)

The things you should look at are at the high end not the low end. I am pretty sure lifetime maximums don't exist anymore, but when I was last shopping there were all kind of terrrrrrible deals if you were looking at a multi-million dollar bill resulting in lifetime crippling debt. Imagine millions in bills and do the math from there, imagine specialists, etc, some have different rates and deductibles for specialists and whatnot.

You probably want a higher deductible but with 100% coverage at the high end, there will not be any frugal option for good coverage of both low deductible and robust catastrophic coverage, you might be able to find something with a preventative copay and some prescription help, but if I were you I would be focusing on the catastrophic high end. The low end stuff is icing for people who aren't prone to crippling cancers and usually adds a ton to the total price, the high end stuff keeps you from bankruptcy.

Their you getting sick calculator says 23 year old nonsmokers are not likely to have million dollar cancer treatments, but you are likely to use the doctor for trivial stuff. So the pricing is biased in your favor.

Be careful of generic only coverage too, sometimes they simply don't exist and you need a very expensive set of pills, this again is where the high end coverage helps.
Good luck

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Claim for when the initial branch fell and use that as leverage to get it removed?


Claim for when the initial branch fell and use that as leverage to get it removed

I bought my house in 2008. In July 2009, I had a large limb fall from a tree near my house. It landed on my deck, smashed a patio table, and dented an eave trough. I repaired the damage myself and did not file a claim with my insurance company (In hindsight, I should have filed).

Fast forward to summer 2013, the tree has sprouted mushrooms: http://imgur.com/wcn8sov
Where there are mushrooms there is dead wood. The large branch going off to the left in the picture extends over my garage and my neighbor's house. If it fell it would cause serious damage to both our houses.

I want the tree removed. I had an estimate by a local company and they said it would cost $5000 (!!!). Probably because it extends over 2 houses and there is not a great way to get a large vehicle into my backyard. I cannot afford $5000 for tree removal.
So there it is. What should I do? Can I file a backdated claim for when the initial branch fell and use that as leverage to get it removed? Or, will they just note it on my file and tell me it is my responsibility since it is a known hazard? My response to that is I legitimately did not know it was a hazard before the first branch fell in 2009.

Your window is closed on that particular claim, you only have 2 years to file. Some policies do cover falling objects some do not. Tree removal is also not always covered and in my state is capped at a fixed amount $250 per tree and it already has to be resting on a covered peice of property.

If they were going to provide coverage you would still be subject to your deductible.
Honestly that price for tree removal sounds insane I have had very large trees removed and stumps ground down for $1000. I think the best course of action is to shop around. I would start the conversastion with "I have a company offering to take it out and grind the stump for $1000 cash but I wanted to see if I could get a better price".

Most insurance carriers will not cover removal of standing trees. It's considered normal maintenance that the homeowner should cover.
You could wait for it to fall, when your insurer would kick in, but that is a risk proposition. It could cause massive damage or injure someone in a way that would exceed your insurance limits. Also, most carriers do not include high limits for tree removal if it falls (usually only $500), so you'll probably still get stuck with most of the bill, even if it doesn't damage anything.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but I would get more tree removal quotes and bite the bullet. It's the joy of home ownership.

I'm going to have to agree with them both and say you're going to have to foot this removal yourself. Normally though when a tree falls and hits your neighbors home, their insurance would cover their damage BUT since this tree has been a problem already you'd probably be held liable for any damage to their home also.
Seriously get more quotes and see about maybe just starting with that large, dangerous part?

You should also speak with your neighbor, show them the tree, and ask them pay for 1/2 or whatever percentage of the tree would cover/damage their house if it falls as well.
Then again, that may be a dangerous ground because if they say no and you don't do take care of the tree, and then it falls on their house, couldn't they then sue you or go after your insurance company??

You cannot file a backdated claim from 2008. Statute of limitations I believe is 2 years. Not to sound rude, but this tree is on your property and it is your responsibility to maintain it. You said above you realize the tree is dead, so it your responsibility to mitigate any further damages by trimming any branches over your neighbor and/or your property, or really, have it removed! You didn't know it was a hazard in 2009 which is OK as far as the damage incurred then, but you've known for 4 years since then and haven't done anything about it. It is your responsibility to either pay for its removal or pay for any damages your or your neighbor incurs from any future damage. Also, your neighbor has the right to cut off any growth (branches) that enter their yard from your tree. They can go from the property line and cut off the branch. However, they might not be aware the tree is dead as you say, and it is also on your property, so that really lies with you, since you technically own the tree and you are aware of its condition.
I worked as a property claims adjuster for 2 years. Tree removal is expensive but $5000 sounds expensive. I would shop around and then get it taken care of ASAP.

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How claim collision vs. pay out

So recently I was in a car accident (myself and a guardrail), and I'm now in the position of having to deal with the insurance company. I spoke to them and opened up claim, but I'm having trouble determining whether I want to pay out of pocket for the repairs or whether I want to pay for my deductible and ask for the rest from them. The front of the car is pretty banged up (bumpers came all the way off) but the airbags didn't deploy, the windshield didn't crack, and I walked away unscathed.
Does anyone have a good understanding of how my premiums might be affected? I guess the specific questions I have at this point (an insurance adjuster is about to assess the damages to the car and give me a decision of whether its reparable or not):
1) Are my rates going to go up regardless of what I choose to do (I figure they will)?
2) Is there any sort of way to reasonably guess how I they might go in increasing the premium?
The car itself is blue booked at a little above 7000. Supposing they only paid out 6000 and the car was totaled, and I put that money towards a new car, how much could I reasonably expect to be paying extra? (Even if they increased my rates by $100 per month it would take 5 years to pay that 6000 back, plus I'd be spending future money as opposed to money I could save now.
Thats all I have right now, but I'm still somewhat in shock as this happened at 3 am and I still haven't had much sleep. I'll edit back with more info/questions if needed.
If it makes any difference the cop charged me with failure to maintain lane as opposed to reckless driving, as it was due to an animal jumping out that I ended up hitting the guardrail.

The front of the car is pretty banged up (bumpers came all the way off) but the airbags didn't deploy
I was rear-ended by another driver going less than 5 mph and had a few minor scratches and dents. The repair costs was $1,000 and my vehicle is only worth $3,000 at the most. I would imagine your repairs would cost much more.
Are my rates going to go up regardless of what I choose to do (I figure they will)?
It's very possible, since you have already opened up a claim, you will have an at fault accident on your record regardless if you decide to pay for it yourself or not. I believe it's standard procedure for any claims reported to insurance companies to go on the insureds record regardless if the insurer pays out anything. Also, this was reported to the police so it will show up on your MVR and CLUE report.

I had heard before that if the cops make a report (which was the case) you need to report to the insurance company anyways or it can be considered fraud.
I looked up with a competitor's online estimator tool and it looks like my rates will go up, though the difference in how much they go up based on if I choose to take the money or not is only $10 per month, unless the company I am with has a significantly different pricing scheme, it looks like that so long as they pay at or even slightly below the blue book value I should be covered completely.
Any word on how accurate those online pricing tools are?

Any word on how accurate those online pricing tools are?
For any quote, online or offline, make sure they pull your records (MVR, CLUE and credit). The quotes I've done online myself usually do this automatically. If they pull an accident, ticket or claim that you forgot about or didn't know about it can change the rate quite a bit. Same with poor credit or no credit.

It did use my social security number, so hopefully that automatically links credit? As for the accidents I made sure to list them in the quote-builder itself.
Are there any rules of thumb about when its worth it financially to just say scrap the car vs. trying to get it repaired?
If the insurance company deems it financially totaled (which is when the cost of repair is >75% of the car I believe) I'm thinking it might make sense to go ahead and try and buy a used car with the payment as opposed to trying to repair the car. I've been told cars don't really drive the same after significant accidents and on top of this I don't think I'd be able to easily sell the car for a significant amount in the future. Anything else I put into the car would just become essentially a sunk cost.
Does that seem that all sound reasonable?

It did use my social security number, so hopefully that automatically links credit?
Yeah that is usually the way it works in the systems I use as long as the name and address are put in correctly.
Are there any rules of thumb about when its worth it financially to just say scrap the car vs. trying to get it repaired?
I would start looking at used cars in the range of what you believe your vehicle is worth if totaled. Most people do believe their vehicle is worth much more than it actually is though. From what I understand a lot of insurance companies will search for vehicles of similar year, make, model and condition (miles, dents, etc) in your area to get an idea of what the vehicle is worth. That may or may not be what KBB says it's worth.
Does that seem that all sound reasonable?
I'm not a mechanic or expert on those matters. If you have a mechanic you trust it would be best to ask them.

Not true at all. Just because an officer makes a report, it doesn't obligate you to make a claim. The decision to make a claim is yours (or the other driver if they decide to pursue liability). The only fraud would be denying you've had an accident.

Dunno about rates but lots of times (i'd say like 70-80%) there is a chance there would be a supplement on hidden damages, more labor, parts, etc., which could be pretty expensive.
If you don't mind, could you tell me the year, make, and model of your vehicle? I don't handle total loss but I do handle APD and I have an idea of the value of vehicles based on normal age, expected mileage, condition, etc. Also, Insurance companies do NOT NOT NOT use Kelley Blue Book to determine the value of totaled cars. They use software called CCC to scope similar condition vehicles of similar year and the same make and model in your geographical location to determine the actual cash value on your car.

2004 honda crv was what I had.

given the scope of the accident, i would let insurance cover it, unless you have a few thousand bucks to pay for repairs.

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5 Things you should know before insurance shopping!

1. Do not LIE, our underwriters will find out if you have hidden information from the selling agent and your policy will be rerated or cancelled.

2. Time. If you are going for a commercial quote, you should be calling at least 30 days in advance. Same goes for construction projects, vacancies, grow ops, etc. Don't be that guy who is starting a business and waits until the landlord/lawyer is handing you the keys, asking you for your insurance certificate.

3. That's a great point. When people take too long to get auto quotes and they miss out on our Future Effective Discount - it's a real bummer.

4. For Auto Insurance -
current address
Driver's names and date of birth's. Driver's license number is also helpful.
Have the year make and model of each car that needs to be covered
coverage limits you are looking for, or current policy
if you have had a few accidents, it is a good idea to know when they were and which ones are not at fault or at fault
Home insurance (Florida specific) -
ADDRESS!!
coverage limits, or square footage
have your windstorm mitigation inspection ready
Dates, details, and payouts of any prior claims
closing date (if applicable)
shut up and let the agent lead the conversation. We have a flow to the questions we need to ask, it will take 1/10th the time if you let us lead the conversation.

5. Your name/address/date of birth, social security number
Knowledge of the property being insured (house- square footage, type of heat, type of plumbing, type of roofing. car- make/model/year of all vehicles being insured. Name, date of birth, drivers license numbers.)
Current carrier and term dates. And for the love of god don't tell your agent you're closing on a house tomorrow and need insurance on it.
Current policy limits, or required limits. Including limits of liability on auto, current coverage on house, necessary coverage for any commercial limits
And have a phone number that works, and use it.

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